Mad Monkey; Ethical & Socially Responsible Hostels

8 weeks in and currently in Cambodia which I really love. I have just recently come from staying at the Mad Monkey Hostel in Phnom Penh (that we enjoyed so much we decided to stay at their Kampot branch too).

Mad Monkey was my first dorm experience as until now I've been a bit of a 'flashpacker' but I couldn't have asked for a better introductory experience. 

On my bus journey to Phnom Penh some girls told me some horror stories of when they stayed there such as people pissing the bed and having sex in the room but I'm pleased to say I was not exposed to any of this. 

As well as being a fun, pleasant place to stay, Mad Monkey also do their bit for the local community. 

They only employ young local people who have come from a difficult or poor background as one waiter at the Phnom Penh branch told us. His father was a policeman who was killed whilst his mother was pregnant by the Rebels from the Pol Pot regime after it had collapsed (see my previous blog on Cambodia's killing fields) so he grew up poor and never met his Dad, which he still feels angry and upset by, but you couldn't meet a nicer more genuine guy. He even took us out after his shift to the local clubs which was such a good night! 

Here we are doing ballons with our lovely waiter to the right. 

Mad Monkey will give these sometimes disadvantaged young people proper training, a chance to learn better English, a secure job and wage as well as free healthcare and education. 

They also fund education and clean water initiatives across Cambodia mentioned in my thank you e-mail; 

Another Scheme in Kampot - artwork done by local children in the community which you can buy for $25 USD which goes towards educating children with learning difficulties through Art. 

The company also has a really strong stance on peodophillia and prostitures which I really applause. 

'If you bring a prostitute back and they're underage we will kick the shit out of you before we cart you off to prison' - just one of the house rules stayed on the website. 

Some of 'The Rules'. 

Overall I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at the Phnom Penh and Kampot branches of Mad Monkey (there's also a third in Siem Reap) and would definitely recommend. 

Cambodia Killing Fields

As clichèd as it sounds this whole trip and travelling thing was 'to find myself'. The experience so far has been personal and spiritual as expected but also exceptionally educational.

After a visit to the Phnom Pehn killing fields (one of many in Cambodia) today it really opened up my eyes to their history. I knew quite a bit about the Vietnam War as it is well documented throughout our culture, i.e TV shows, films etc but I'm ashamed to say I knew nothing of the mass genocide that happened in Cambodia less than 40 years ago killing 3 million people within the space of 4 years 1975-1979. 

The tour was sombre, heartbreaking and shocking that such horrors happened such a short time ago. 

The Memorial Stupa which has stacks upon stacks of the skulls and bones discovered in the mass graves.

Arm bones that still had wire tied round them where victims hands had been bound. 

This tree was particularly upsetting, known as the killing tree, it was the one where soldiers would murder babies and children by holding their legs and swing and smash their heads against the tree before throwing them into a mass grave, where many women were found naked, where they had probably been raped before they were killed. The whole thing was just horrific. 

Walking around, there are still fragments of bone and pieces of clothing that are being uncovered, especially in rainy season. 

Having breakfast with a local in a tiny shack this morning, he told us about his experience and memories of the war. Telling us how he stumbled upon the killing fields in the early 80's (Pot Pol the leader of the Khmer Rouge were overthrown in 1979) looking for food as the country was still starving, and he saw the mass graves and the stench still lingering. He has never returned. 

Even our lovely TukTuk driver, who took us to both the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre (killing field) and S-21 prison and waited for us told of his mothers story. 30 years old he was born after, but his grandmother was one of those killed, which his mother still weeps about.

What is more shocking is that the world knew nothing about this. It's not like this was hundreds of years ago - Pol Pot even had UN officials fooled which is truly sad. 

In 1997 they begun proceedings to charge those responsible with these War Crimes. The trial did not begin untill 2007. Pol Pot died at his home in 1998 and was never bought to justice.

Auschwitz, Cambodia, Rwanda - Genocide is part of modern history which is still happening today in places like the Congo and who knows where else? Syria? Iraq? North Korea? 

The fact is we only see what our media and governments allow us to see and that is the most worrying aspect of all. 

Surviving Hanoi -Vietnam.

Today marks week 5 of my travels. I've spent the last week in Vietmam, which has a totally different culture from Thailand.

So here's my 5 top tips to surrvive Vietnam, Hanoi in particular. 

1) Visas - It's our own fault, we should have done our research. We thought you could just purchase a visa on arrival at customs in Vietnam, but you need to produce an approval letter before you even board the flight. So with 45 minutes till boarding time we had to find the airport WIFI, fill out an online form and pay a small fortune ($68 USD) to receive in 30 minutes, plus another sum for the stamp when you arrive. Do arrange your visa approval letter up to a week before your flight is due to leave. 

2) Weather - I am very aware Vietnam has a rainy season which is why I planned to visit outside of this, but Hanoi doesn't seem to play to the seasonal rules. Landing to miserable weather after enjoying mid 30s in Thailand I thought I'd come back to England. I had come a bit unprepared for these conditions and had to make do with the few warm clothes I did have without looking like a total mish-mash... Which I still did. 

3) Taxis - like any major city tourists and foreigners can get taken advantage of and ripped off. It only happened once but avoid the Green Taxis, although it was on the metre it was going up exceptionally fast, when the same journey had cost us less than half the first time. Also at museums such as the Ho Chi Mihn temple there is a foreigners entrance which you have to pay for whereas other people don't! 

4) Crossing the Road - literally one of the most daunting things you'll ever do! Bikes, motor bikes, cars and busses coming in all directions honking away at each other. I'm not the best driver, but my god, the Vietnamese are awful (don't get me started on the bus drivers which have me genuinely fearing for my life) . The best thing to do is to step out, slow and steady but don't stop, be careful of cars but all the bikes just ride around and swerve you. 

5) Shopping - take some extra cash if you want to shop. There are some lovely boutiques in Hanoi. As many of the factories and clothes are made here you can get all your favourite pieces from shops like Zara for a fraction of the price. Although I don't agree with counterfeit goods there are some amazing replicas around, the design and quality is as good as the real thing. I'm still dreaming about a Givenchy skirt I saw. There's also a designer mall, and of course all the tailors in Hôi An (take a sketch or image of what you want, choose the fabric and they will make it within 48 hours! 

Most important of all enjoy it! There's plenty to do, the culture is really nice, once part of the French colony the French influence is really visible in the buildings, some of the cuisine and language. Vietnam is yet to get overly touristy so it's nice to experience it whilst it's still genuine. If you go Hanoi, I would definitely recommend a visit to Halong Bay despite the dismal weather it was a really fun trip. 

*We stayed for 2 nights in Hanoi, 1 night in Halong Bay which was more than enough time to see everything* 

Travel Reads; Wild by Cheryl Strayed

I'll proudly admit I'm a book worm, but I don't read as much as I should or would like to at home. 

However with lots of long journeys and days to wile away on some of the worlds best beaches I planned to read a lot during my travels. 

Before I left I had seen the film 'Wild' with Reese Whetherspoon advertised, so when I come across the book at Bangkok airport before my flight to Phuket I picked it up. 

Airports seem to be full of these journey types of books trying to appeal to fellow travellers, but from the blurb this is the one that I found most appealing regardless if I knew about the film or not. 

As I sat there reading the first chapter I cried for the majority of the short flight from Bangkok to Phuket. God knows what the people next to me thought, sniffing away trying to wipe my tears discreetly. It's been years since I cried at a book so I knew I would it would be good. Anything that causes a stir of emotion has to be good. (The last book I cried to was One Day by David Nicholls FYI). 

Written by Cheryl Strayed the book is about her journey, hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (a mountain range running from the Mexico - Canadian Boarder in America). 

Full of honesty it's much about her personal journey and self discovery as it is the physical. Aged 26 when she decided to take the trip (same age as me now) I could heavily relate to that 'lost' feeling. 

Coming up to my fourth week away from home now I can say that feeling is ebbing away more everyday and this still remains to be one of my bravest, wildest, wisest & best decision to date. And reading Strayed's book just confirmed that choice. I just hope the film won't disappoint now.